Thursday, April 16, 2015

I Blame the Hair: Stories of Pi Mai Lao

Happy 2558! Yes you read that right. Today is the first day of the year 2558 in Lao. Though the holiday is technically only three days, the country has been celebrating Pi Mai all week long. As I mentioned the holiday is 3 days beginning April 14th through April 16th. The first day is the last day of the old year; the second is considered no day and is neither part of the old year or the new one, The last day, today, is the first day of the new year. Never have I ever celebrated so many new years since coming to Laos. First there was Hmong New year followed by Khmu. Next there was the International New Year known in Laos as countdown and then there was the bombardment of Chinese tourists celebrating their new year here in Luang Prabang (which I still don't completely understand), and finally Lao New Year. With so many New Years it's no wonder I'm still struggling to put 2015 instead of 2014 when I write the date.


Anyway, Lao New Year has been quite the interesting experience. My first taste of this water throwing festival happened a couple weeks before Pi Mai actually began when I was "attacked" by my little neighbors. 


Fortunately, the rest of the city was patient enough to wait until it was closer to the holiday to start throwing water. The water throwing really began to pick up on my birthday. I already shared about how my students and I threw our own little Pi Mai/Birthday party, but after they left my friends and I headed to the pool. On the way I was doused twice, the second time I didn't even see it coming. All of the sudden I was soaking wet, good thing I was already prepared for swimming. After the pool we headed to dinner. We were all driving one right behind the other and I was in the middle. Groups of people were throwing water all around yet somehow everyone except me managed to show up to dinner dry. Every time we passed someone they skipped my roommate who was directly in front of me, hit me, and didn't managed to fill up their buckets in time to get my friend behind us. But being the obvious falang of the group with my blonde hair sticking out of my helmet revealing my true identity as a non-native I was a sure target. "Get the Falang", they cried not realizing that my half-Asian roommate was also a falang herself. 


It stayed this way until Tuesday with just a few groups of water throwers scattered throughout town. Going out meant risking getting wet but there was still a slight chance you could make it back home as dry as you left. But once Tuesday hit it was all out madness. Music blasting from every home, trucks lined up down the street, crowds of people pushing their way through the streets, and Lao and foreigners alike dousing everyone that passes by. 

Now let me back up for a minute to Monday and tell you about a random meeting with a Lao-French family at KuangSi. Two friends were visiting us here in LP for the New Year, (Luang Prabang is known for being THE place to celebrate Pi Mai) and so I went with them to KuangSi. I've already been to KuangSi a lot so I volunteered to hang back at the bottom and watch their stuff while they made their way up the waterfall. Meanwhile I was sitting alone at a picnic table (a big no no here in Lao, the being alone part, not the sitting at a picnic table part) just people watching when this family walked up to me. "Are you alone?" "Yah, well no, i'm just waiting on my friends" "Oh, do you mind if we sit here." "No, not at all." So they sat down and we began chatting. Next thing I know my stomach is stuffed with bananas, corn, and some strange yogurt type thing. I learned that they are now living in France and left Southeast Asia as refugees. We talked until my two friends returned and they handed me their business card telling me that if I'm ever back in Paris to call them. 

On Tuesday morning, the city set up a huge market downtown. It was crazy crowded and since I hate crowds I was ready to leave quickly after arriving. But before turning to head back home my group decided to stop for coffee. While waiting in line, I saw them! The family I had met at KuangSi. In this huge crazy crowd there they were again. We laughed about how crowded it was and that it really is a "small world after all" before they went on their way into the bustling market. 


Wednesday, we once again headed downtown to watch the procession. The procession was beautiful, but this quick and final story isn't about the procession. Since being in Lao I have learned that absolutely nothing is yours. What's mine is yours and what is yours is mine. I have also found that Lao people are really touchy, and not just in a romantic way. Friends are always seen holding hands, with their arms around each other, or just leaning on each other. I will never forget when I was taking a picture with a student and she grabbed my hand. It threw me off a little, but to her it was perfectly natural. With that being said I always felt that this touchy culture was usually confined to just people you know. WRONG. So i'm sitting there watching the procession and a little Lao girl is sitting next to me. I have never met her before but as she sits and watches she feels comfortable enough to prop her elbow up on my leg. Before coming to Lao I probably would not have let some random child use me as a support but then again a random child in America would never sit close enough to a stranger to be able to prop themselves up. Nevertheless, it was adorable and I creepily snuck a picture. 




For the record you can throw water on the monks, but not the police.






Okay enough ramblings. Pi Mai was wonderful and full of water throwing battles. I say that is if its over, but in fact the music is still blaring outside my house. And the Lao people sure do enjoy having that bass up... I'm enjoying the holiday but I'm also ready to get back to school. I miss my students and it's only been a few days. Also the end of Pi Mai means my year 4 students will be back from their practice teaching!! So that kind of make me happy. 

The streets of Luang Prabang over the past couple days and probably what they still look like right now










My co-worker and his son


Home from a day of water wars


And lastly a short clip of what it's like walking through the city. Also big thanks to my LifeProof phone case for allowing me to take all these pictures without having my phone drowned.

video


Friday, April 10, 2015

A Laosy Birthday

Well I guess it's time to stop singing Taylor's Swift's Twenty Two because I don't know about you but i'm feeling twenty three... yeah that's definitely not as catchy. Nevertheless twenty-three has been great so far.. I mean its only been 24 hours but hey it's been a great 24 hours!

My day started out as any other ordinary morning; I went to the office and prepared for my class. While trying to pass time until my 10:00 class I worried that none of my students were going to show up. I had been warned that because of Lao New Year next week by Thursday most students would probably be heading home. My worry increased when I saw two of my students leaving campus and another one who told me he thought class was cancelled. I also was concerned that my students who did stay were going to be mad that I made them come to class. So as the clock struck 10:00, I held my breath, and walked to my classroom.

I walked into a dark room and was greeted with a "Good happy morning birthday teacher". My students looked at each other before making a second attempt, "Good morning teacher, happy birthday!". They then began singing the Lao version of the happy birthday song and brought out cake; which we managed to split the cake up into 30 bite size pieces so all the students could have some. However, instead of eating the cake my students fed the cake to me. It went something like this: hold fork up to Teacher Dani's mouth, snap a picture, shove cake in Teacher Dani's mouth, and repeat with next student. Eventually they must have gotten bored because feeding me the cake was no longer enough. Now they were smearing cake on my face and the process started all over again only this time it was: rub cake on Teacher's face, take picture, and repeat. 



After taking all the variations of pictures possible we finished "class" and moved the party over to my house. They decided that they wanted to start throwing water for Pi Mai (Lao New Year) so we filled up buckets and began dousing passersby. It was an absolute blast! I love every time that I get to hang out with my students outside of class, but yesterday is now one of my favorite moments from this year in Laos. 



After wrapping up the party, the rest of the day was spent with the other falangs here in LP, swimming and drinking fruit shakes poolside. #LPluxury


And a couple more snapshots from yesterday! Please note I stole most of these pictures off students's Facbook pages. With the exception of this first screenshot of the Happy Birthday text my year 4 student sent me at 5 AM.







Thursday, April 2, 2015

Nong Khiaw - Laos

This post is long over due, but I definitely wanted to share about Nong Khiaw. A few friends and I went back in January and had a great time. The small town is drop dead gorgeous maybe even definitely more beautiful than Luang Prabang. I mean this is essentially the view no matter which way you look.



Nong Khiaw is about a 5 hour bus ride north of LP and is easily seen in a weekend. The town is surrounded by mountains with the Nam Ou river running through the center. Speaking of the river Nong Khiaw is also famous for its delicious river-weed (basically seaweed). Now I am not usually a fan of seaweed or anything of the sort but the river-weed was actually pretty tasty.

But river-weed isn't the only thing you will find in this little city. If you like hiking, waterfall climbing, and cave seeing then Nong Khiaw is the place for you. We did two hikes while we were there; the first was the 100 Waterfalls. This hike is without a doubt the coolest hike i've ever been on. You quite literally hike up a 100 small waterfalls.




Some of the views on the way to and from the hike





The second hike we did begins in the center of Nong Khiaw and goes up to a look out over the town. As recommended to us we did this hike later in the evening just before sunset. I admit the hike was a bit steep and after a long day of hiking up waterfalls I wasn't really in the mood to hike again but it was totally worth it.  And if you ever find yourself in Nong Khiaw this hike is a must do. Make sure to plan ahead so you can make it to the top by sunrise or sunset.



The one problem with going to watch the sunset is hiking down in the dark. So bring a flashlight, and don't worry to much it's perfectly safe out there...

Saturday, March 21, 2015

A Family and a Village

I believe I have already posted enough pictures to prove that Laos is one of the most beautiful places in the world.. I mean look at it.


Sunshine, rivers, mountains, palm trees, elephants, waterfalls... What more could you possibly ask for?! 

The thing about Laos though is just when you thought the country could not be any more beautiful you begin talking to the people. The people of Lao are the most generous, hospitable, and kind people I have ever met. The are often shy especially around foreigners, but smile at them and they won't be able to keep from smiling back. 
A few weeks ago some friends and I had the opportunity to spend a day with a very special family here in Laos. In downtown LP there is a line of fruit/sandwich stands and over the past several months we have befriended a family behind one of these stands. They work all day long, every day of the week. Rarely do they take a break. But despite the exhaustion they without a doubt must be feeling they are always smiley and happy to see us. For a while now we have wanted to invite them over for dinner, but because they are always working we never could find a good time for them to come and eat with us. But we didn't give up. Since they couldn't come to us we brought dinner to them.


The family still had to work that night but in between making sandwiches and blending fruit shakes, we talked and giggled. And by the end of the night we were making plans to visit Hua's family out in her village. So Saturday morning they Hua's sister filled in for her and we were off to meet Hua' parents and other siblings. Her mother was just as kind and generous as Hua and cooked us a delicious Lao lunch. After walking around the village, gawking at the gorgeous views, and stuffing ourselves chicken and rice we headed home but not without a bag full of papayas. (Another thing Hua must get from her mother. We can never leave her stand without arm fulls of fruit.)

Hua (far right) and her beautiful family


Hua's daughter



Not only were we given bags of fruit but at one point we were offered a puppy



One final laughable picture of the giant falangs and the family

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